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Portrait: Don & Petie Kladstrup

 
Don & Petie Kladstrup

Don and Petie Kladstrup are former journalists who have written extensively about wine and France over the years. They are the authors of the international bestseller Wine and War, a book describing how French winemakers struggled to survive under the Nazi occupation of France in World War II. Their most recent book, Champagne!, focuses on the First World War, explaining how "The world's most glamorous wine triumphed over war and hard times".

Wine has been a part of their life for many years. When the Kladstrups lived in the U.S., they enjoyed it occasionally with barbecues or on special occasions, but rarely with daily meals. "It was only after moving to France," says Don, "that we discovered the true magic of wines, how wine can be part of a meal and part of life." This is not to say the Kladstrups disavow American and other New World wines, which they enjoy. It's just that those wines are different. When Don's job took them to South Africa for two years, they had the opportunity to taste what was being made there. "Things were very old-fashioned and very limited in style," says Petie. "That, of course, has changed over the past decade, and that's what makes the world of wine so much fun: to see how things change and to meet the people who are responsible."

In France, where Don worked as a television news correspondent, he was always trying to persuade his bosses in New York to let him do stories about French wine. "This wasn't always easy," Petie notes. "Not when earth-shaking events like the revolution in Iran and the fall of the Berlin Wall were taking place. Still, he generally succeeded, not only once but often twice a year, and New York loved what they received."

Little by little, over the years, the Kladstrups got to know some of the people who make wine. Many became good friends. "I think that was our inspiration for writing," Petie says. "We became really fascinated with the people who owned the vineyards. We wanted to capture their personalities and how this was reflected in the wine they made." The fact that the Kladstrups were American helped as well, especially when they were writing Wine and War. "We weren't afraid to ask questions," adds Petie, "but more importantly, we were totally neutral in terms of the politics of the occupation. It made people feel more comfortable about talking to us and how they managed to survive."

It was during their research for Wine and War that Don and Petie became acquainted with Château Palmer. They learned how two Jewish families had been hidden in an annex at the back of the château shortly before the Germans took it over. The Germans never discovered them.

What Don and Petie discovered was how wonderful the wines of Palmer are. One year, Petie gave Don a case of Palmer 1982 for Christmas. All twelve bottles have long since been drunk. The only Palmer left in their cave is a bottle of 1970. No question it's ready to drink, but the Kladstrups are waiting for the right moment. Meanwhile, they enjoy drinking young wines, too. "Our wines are like our children. We want to know how they're evolving. We want to enjoy them in their youth, in their mature years and in their old age."

Is that why or is it because they're fascinated by difficult historical times that their cellar contains a very special bottle, very close to Don's heart? "Our favorite wines are always those we haven't drunk," explains Petie, "those that are still waiting for us in our cave." In this case, it's an 1892 Château Ausone from a famous Paris restaurant that no longer exists, Café Voisin. The restaurant's fame rests on an unusual Christmas dinner it staged in 1870 during the Franco-Prussian War. Paris had been encircled by the German army and was running out of food. To feed the city's starving population, officials slaughtered all the animals in the zoo. In a moment of inspiration, the owner of Voisin put together a menu with the zoo animals accompanied by very fine wines.

A couple of years ago, there was an auction and a bottle of wine from Voisin was on sale. When Don spotted it, he couldn't resist bidding on it. He won! "I have no idea when we'll open it," he says, "but I hope we'll have the courage to drink it. For sure it'll have to be a very special occasion."

There will certainly be very special occasions to come in Don and Petie's extraordinary life − wherever they are!

   

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